Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help?
Enter the auto belay, a rock climber’s answer to rock climb solo safely (not free solo though). Auto belay is perfect for any solo gymgoer who wants to get stronger. Don’t be intimidated by the lack of human support, it’s much safer than you think!
I often climb alone due to my erratic work schedule and am always surprised by the number of solo climbers. And since I am less fond of bouldering, auto belay is my favorite section in the gym.
If this is your first time trying an auto belay, keep reading as we explore everything you need to know about this modern buddy system!
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What Is Auto Belaying?
Auto belays, a short form of automatic belays, are designed to provide support for climbers as they scale up the wall. They are mechanical devices that use friction brakes, anchored at the top of the route to allow a climber to climb up (or down) without the need of a human belayer.
Climbers can pace themselves when they climb and is a great way to train endurance. Since there is no way you can call “take” on this device (there are other devices that do that which we will get to it later), you will descend to the ground the moment you fall.
Auto belays were first invented in the 1990s and were mainly used as recreational safety descent devices in adventure parks. However, it wasn’t as climber-friendly as there was a strong upward pull towards the anchor, creating resistance in the climber’s movements.
Today, the auto belay devices that you see in many rock climbing gyms are made for climbers and have stringent safety standards. You will likely spot a TRUBLUE auto belay system or a Perfect Descent auto belay device in your local gym.
Fun fact: Perfect Descent has the only approved auto belay device for IFSC Speed Climbing events.
How Does An Auto Belay Work?
There are three types of auto belay systems: hydraulic auto belays, magnetic braking auto belays, and friction braking (Clutch-bearing) auto belays.
They all serve the same purpose: retract the belay line (sometimes known as a lanyard) as the climber climbs, protect the climber from any falls, and provide a controlled descent. It is a piece of protective mechanical equipment against falls.
What sets each of them apart is the braking system. Here are the different types of auto belays in the market:
Hydraulic Auto Belays
Pioneering the auto belay industry, the hydraulic system works by placing a hydraulic cylinder behind a climbing wall with the belay line going over the wall. It uses a combination of pressurized air and hydraulic fluid (oil) to create a gradual descent for climbers (as hydraulic fluid is incompressible, slowing the descent).
However, this old-school mechanism works best with portable climbing walls rather than permanent gym walls. With its bulky appearance, it is as heavy as you think it is and requires constant pressure checks. In addition, hydraulic fluid leaks can create a messy situation.
Magnetic Braking
Head Rush Technologies, the team behind TRUBLUE, made this patented magnetic braking device that relies on eddy currents that work against the magnetic field. This technology applies to roller coasters as well.
There are two stationary magnets located inside the device. When a climber descends, the weight will create a centrifugal force that spins the aluminum rotor arms inside the device. This creates eddy currents that are of opposing directions to the magnet and create resistance for a slow landing.
This device is also self-regulating as more weight increases contact with the conductive material, creating a stronger opposing force. The best part? It is also weatherproof and requires little maintenance as it does not have wear-and-tear parts.
If you are a fast climber, you may notice some slack for a brief moment. This is the magnetic field readjusting to coil the line so you have nothing to worry about.
Friction Braking
Friction braking systems are hung at the top of the route and use a retraction spring to coil the slack as the climber ascends. It uses a clutch system to disengage the drum brake as the climber goes up.
The centrifugal force in the drum pushes the brake pads to move against the drum, creating drag in the opposing direction. Over time, the heat from the friction will cause the braking system to deteriorate. It will also generate brake dust that will affect the braking performance.
If you are a heavier climber, you will definitely feel a longer free fall. That is because the device requires more friction to slow the descent.
Which Auto Belay Braking System Is Better For Speed Climbing?
Both TRUBLUE (magnetic braking system) and Perfect Descent (friction braking system) have customized products for speed climbers.
The TRUBLUE Speed Auto Belay’s retraction speed is between 3.3 to 3.7 m/s (2.7 seconds on a 10 m wall) whereas Perfect Descent Speed Drive’s retraction speed is at 4.6 m/s.
How To Use An Auto Belay Properly
1. You can identify an auto belay system if you noticed a line is clipped onto a belay gate or a low climbing bolt that acts as a ground anchor.
2. Find the big locking carabiner at the end of the line.
• If the carabiner is clipped onto a belay gate, clip the carabiner to your belay loop first. The carabiner comes with a two-part twist-and-push system to open it. Once you clip it onto the belay loop of your harness, check that it is locked by pressing your fingers onto the carabiner gate (it should not budge). Then, remove the belay gate’s carabiner.
• If the carabiner is clipped onto the bolt, repeat the same steps as above without the belay gate involved.
Note: Releasing the belay line before it clips onto your harness will send the belay line up to the top of the anchor. You will need someone (most likely a climbing marshall) to climb up and retrieve it back down. One thing is for sure, someone will be really unhappy.
3. When you are done, always clip your belay line back to the ground anchor first before unclipping your harness. If there are no belay gates present, there should be a low climbing bolt available to clip in.
To see the full sequence, watch this step-by-step guide on how to climb with an auto belay device. Do note that this video does not involve a belay gate.
What Is The Difference Between Auto Belay And Manual Belay?
Manual Belay has two individuals involved: one will be the climber and the other will be the belayer who will support the climber by taking or feeding the rope. The belayer will use a belay device such as an ATC to control the rope.
Auto belay does not need a second person as it already has a braking system in-built into the device. The climber does not need to do safety command checks with a human belayer but instead, ensure that the auto belay line is clipped into their harness correctly.
Is Auto Belay Top Rope?
No, auto belay is not top-roping. Although the style of climbing is similar, top-roping involves traditional belaying where a human belayer will support the rope and you communicate safety commands. With an auto-belay system, there is no communication needed as it is just you, the auto-belay system, and the wall alone.
How Long Is Auto Belay?
The webbing length of the auto belay measures between 28 feet (8.5 meters) to 65.6 feet (20 meters). Here are the different measurements that each brand sells:
- TRUBLUE: 41 feet (12.5 meters), 65 feet (20 meters)
- Perfect Descent: 28 feet (8.5 meters), 40 feet (12.2 meters), 53 feet (16.1 meters)
- Honor AdventureTech: 29.5 feet (9 meters), 52.5 feet (16 meters), 65.6 feet (20 meters)
Does Auto Belay Make It Easier?
Yes, climbing using an auto belay is very straightforward and easy, just clip in properly and climb! It eliminates the hassle of tying a belay knot and any human belaying error and at the same time, improves your climbing technique, strength, and endurance.
How Much Weight Can Auto Belays Hold?
The average weight limit for an auto belay device is around 315 lbs, equivalent to 142 kg. A TRUBLUE device can accommodate up to 330 lbs, equivalent to 150 kg. This is where the benefits of auto belay outweigh a normal human belayer, you don’t have to find someone your size to belay you safely!
The average weight range for each auto-belay device brand is as follows:
- TRUBLUE: 10 to 140 kg (22 to 309 lbs)
- Perfect Descent: 11.5 to 140 kg (25 to 310 lbs)
- Honor AdventureTech: 10 to 150 kg (22 to 331 lbs)
Can Auto Belay Fail?
Auto-belay devices are very safe. Although it is not 100% foolproof, the chances of a fatal accident due to a mechanical error are very rare. Most importantly, as a climber, you must look out for your safety by ensuring that the auto belay is clipped in correctly to the belay loop of your harness.
If you are unsure if you are doing it correctly, check with one of the climbing gym staff to guide you accordingly and they will be happy to help.
Conclusion
I hope this article answers all queries you have about auto belays. Most importantly, it is very safe to climb with and is suitable for all ages.
At any point if you are unsure about your gym’s auto belay system, please speak to the staff in attendance and they will be happy to assist.
Happy climbing!
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