Is bouldering considered more dangerous than climbing? I often have this debate among my peers, convincing them that one is less dangerous than the other. Some people will agree that bouldering is far less dangerous than roped climbing, while others will beg to differ.
Speaking from personal experience, I will agree that bouldering is more dangerous than roped climbing. In bouldering, a slip on a hold can result in a bad climbing accident (which is what happened to me when I tore my ACL from a fall from an overhang problem). I am sure you have seen wheelchairs making an occasional appearance when gym climbing!
Nevertheless, I will share some of the risks that come with both bouldering and roped climbing and how you can climb safely to prevent accidents.
DISCLOSURE: Some of the links on here are affiliate links, and I may earn if you click on them, AT NO EXTRA cost to you. I hope you find the information useful! Thanks!
Bouldering vs Roped Climbing
As much as there are similarities between the two, there are some key differences between bouldering and roped climbing including equipment, height, and climbing the route. This is why the Olympics consider them both separate events!
Bouldering involves climbing shorter routes whether it’s on rock formations (known as boulders too) or artificial walls without ropes or harnesses. Crash pads are found at the bottom of the route to prevent injuries.
Roped climbing, sometimes known as rock climbing, requires more equipment such as ropes and harnesses on higher walls. You must have a belayer to climb (unless you use an auto-belay system).
Bouldering Vs Roped Climbing Techniques
If there’s a similar sport to compare both bouldering and roped climbing, it will be running.
Bouldering is like a sprint: requiring explosive energy to complete. They are done on shorter walls of up to 15 feet and require powerful dynamic moves. Other than strength, it is also very technical, like a puzzle, hence bouldering is known as “problems”!
Roped climbing is like a marathon: pacing yourself as you progress through. As you are scaling up to 49-foot walls, there are spots along the route where you can rest. Roped climbing can be divided into:
- Top rope climbing: where the rope goes through a single anchor at the top of the route. Also known as top roping, is suitable for beginner rock climbers.
- Lead climbing: Also known as sport climbing, you will climb with secured bolts and quickdraws in place on the wall and clip your rope as your progress through the climb.
- Trad climbing: Trad stands for traditional where climbers have to bring their gear to “bolt” themselves into the walls. These routes are usually outdoors.
- Multi-pitch climbing: Climbers will progress through multiple stages when climbing. Often seen in extremely tall walls or rock formations.
With lead, trad, and multi-pitch climbing, you will need to learn the right techniques to balance and rest to clip your quickdraws into the bolts (or use nuts to wedge into cracks before clipping your gear).
If you’ve not heard of “gaston”, “campus”, or “dead point” in climbing, I have a list of beginner climbing moves for you to refer to! (or act as a refresher)
Bouldering Vs Roped Climbing Grading Systems
Both bouldering and roped climbing are graded by difficulty with different grading systems.
Bouldering grading systems:
- V-Scale: Also known as the Hueco scale, it is used mainly in the United States. Grades will range from V0 (easiest) to V17 (hardest)
- Font Scale: Short for the Fontainebleau scale, it is used in Europe. Grades will range from 1A (easiest) to 9A (most difficult)
Roped climbing grading systems:
- Yosemite Decimal System: Commonly found in the United States. Grades will range from 5.0 (easiest) to 5.15d (hardest).
- French Grading System: Most popular grading system. Grades will range from 1 (easiest) to 9c (hardest). You will also see some routes graded with a + such as 5b+, indicating it is a difficulty level between 5b to 5c.
- UIAA Grading System: Used mainly in Central Europe. Grades will range from I (easiest) to XII (most difficult).
It is also common for indoor climbing gyms to implement their own grading system such as different colors or dots to represent a difficulty level. In addition, a V2 in your home climbing gym may not be a V2 in another gym due to variables in the route setting.
In climbing gyms, you can find bouldering problems ranging from V0 to V8 and rock climbing routes ranging from 4 to 7c.
Bouldering Vs Roped Climbing Equipment
Bouldering equipment only requires:
If you are climbing outside, you will need a solid crash pad that can break fall well like this Metolius crash pad.
Another item to complement your bouldering experience will be a chalk bucket (don’t use a small chalk bag that ties around your waist, you don’t want to fall and splatter chalk on your back.) Sometimes, a climbing hold brush is used to clean holds and maintain grip and texture.
However, despite the minimal items, bouldering’s only safety protection equipment is a crash pad. Falling incorrectly can result in injuries that may require long-term physio and potentially surgeries.
Comparatively, roped climbing has more equipment but also has its risks due to the height of the routes. However, as long as you’ve set it up correctly and have an attentive belayer, the chance of a serious injury in roped climbing will be minimized greatly.
Roped climbing equipment consists of:
If you are doing lead climbing, you will need quickdraws, a helmet, and a rope. I have a whole list of what to wear when climbing so you are always equipped!
Bouldering Vs Roped Climbing Injuries
Because bouldering does not have any safety equipment other than a crash mat, one wrong jump and you might send yourself to the hospital.
Hence, bouldering carries a higher risk of injuries compared to roped climbing, despite the difference in height.
Some of the more common injuries in bouldering from most common to least common:
- muscle strains
- tendonitis
- dislocation
- fractures
- ligament tears (happened to me)
However, most of these can be avoided if you fall correctly.
In roped climbing, there are fewer risks due to the many layers of safety protection such as a helmet, harnesses, and ropes in place. These should not be taken lightly, which is why both climbers and belayers should do a belay and harness check before climbing.
Furthermore, belayers should always pay attention to their climber. This means never letting go of your brake hand on the rope. Poor belaying skills will lead to fatal injuries both for the climber and the belayer.
How To Prevent Injuries When Bouldering
Now that you know what you are getting yourself into, here’s how you can protect yourself from climbing accidents by following these steps:
1. Warm Up and Stretch
Like every other climber, I absolutely hate warming up especially when I am super eager to start climbing.
But warming up is important, as it could prevent strains and allow more mobility when you climb. (Plus, you will climb better)
Start by doing 10 to 15 minutes of butterfly stretches, frog stretches, and arm swings to get your body ready.
2. Learn To Fall Correctly
Ideally, you want to land on your feet, hands crossed over your chest, and roll backward to prevent impact. Keep your chin tucked in to prevent whiplash.
Avoid falling to the side (or you will end up knocking your knees and getting an ACL) if possible.
3. Always Look At Where You Are Falling
There will always be a few rowdy ones walking underneath you when you climb. Make sure the mats are clear before falling or you will risk injuring both parties.
4. Wear Guards Or Climbing Tape
If you are starting to feel strains in your fingers, you can use climbing tape to provide support (and cover blisters too).
I personally use Friction Labs Athletic Finger Tape because it sticks super well to my fingers and doesn’t come off until I remove it at the end of my climbing session.
Before You Send Your Project
When attempting a project or bouldering problem, pay attention to your surroundings and your capabilities. Listen to your body and don’t push yourself too much or you will risk long-term injuries which will require expensive treatments.
Happy climbing!
2t4okj