As one of the most established outdoor rock climbing walls in Malaysia, Gua Damai Wall attracts hundreds of visitors to climb over 60 roped routes of various difficulty levels.
Outdoor rock climbing is a terrain that is out of my comfort zone, especially as an amateur climber. Hence, most of my articles usually revolved around indoor climbing locations around the world.
In Malaysia, rock climbing is becoming more popular as many tourists are making the trip to Batu Caves just to experience the wonderful weather and route setting. There are plenty of hard projects to conquer and newer routes thanks to the dedication of the Malaysian Bolting Fund.
Here in this article, I will explore what Gua Damai Wall rock climbing is about and if it is worth a visit!
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What is Gua Damai?
Gua Damai is a section of Batu Caves located 8.6 miles from Kuala Lumpur. Gua Damai is known as a “Peaceful cave” in Malay. It is home to Gua Damai extreme park: a recreational area that has a skate park, a crag with well-maintained outdoor routes, and BASE jumping.
The Gua Damai Extreme Park price is RM 5 ($ 1) to enter. Wearing a helmet is mandatory as well when climbing or belaying.
What is Batu Caves?
Batu Caves is a limestone mogote that consists of 10 crags with over 250 sports routes and several cave temples. It is considered one of the best rock climbing locations in South East Asia. Some of their most popular crags include Damai Wall, Nanyang Wall, and Nyamuk Wall. It is also popular among first-timers who are curious about Malaysia rock climbing.
Its most popular tourist attraction is a 140-foot golden Murugan Statue located in front of the main temple cave.
How To Get To Damai Wall?
You can get to Damai Wall either by car, train, or bus.
By Car: This is the most convenient way to get there. You can also get free parking outside of the park. Come early as space is limited. You can also take an e-hailing ride there which can cost between $ 5 to $ 10 from Kuala Lumpur.
By Train: Take the Kuala Lumpur Railway Station Komuter (KTM) to Batu Caves station. You will arrive right in front of Batu Caves’ popular cave temple attraction. To get to Damai Extreme Park, you will need to take a taxi or e-hailing ride for an 11-minute journey (2.4 miles away). (I don’t recommend walking, the roads aren’t too safe)
By Bus: From KL, take the Medan Pasar station and take either the 170, 171, 202, or T201 line to Wira Damai (Gombak) RapidKL stop. It is RM 2.50 ($ 0.57) one way and operates from 6 am to 11 pm. You will need to walk a couple blocks to reach Extreme Park.
Damai Wall Rock Climbing
Damai Wall is split into three sections: the Main Wall, the Right Wall, and the Left Wall.
You will make payment at a cozy hut located when you enter through the left gate of the park. The caretaker will then provide you with a yellow wristband before you climb. There is a paid restroom located here and some snacks to fuel your workout.
Most people will crowd by the Main Wall as there is a cement bench to put your equipment and watch other climbers attempt their projects. Occasionally, there will be climbing courses and events taking place here during the weekends.
Favourite Damai Wall Routes
- Unknown 5 (Grade 5c) – Right Wall
If you are nervous about your first lead climbing route, this 5C route is a good place to practice your techniques and clipping skills. There are 3 bolts the top, with many jugs. The first section is more of a sidepull but it gets easier towards the top.
The right wall also has an anchor set up at eye level to practice “cleaning” your anchor.
- Lead Man (Grade 5c) – Main Wall
Another beginner-friendly route, there are lots of jugs and a nice large resting point mid-way through the route. Requires 3 anchors as well. Around 3 bolts as well.
- Duckula (Grade 5c) – Main Wall
The start feels like a bouldering move but once you power up there, it’s an easy 5c climb. Good for endurance and a few resting points along the way.
- Lightning Grip (Grade 6b) – Main Wall
A favorite among intermediate climbers. This route gets challenging on the last 4 bolts (there are around 14 overall). Requires good balancing, especially towards the anchor.
- Monsoon (Grade 6b) – Main Wall
Gua Damai’s classic rock climbing route that all climbers should attempt. Route gets sketchy as you get closer to the cave.
My friends from Panjat Together have compiled some of their favorite trad climbing on their blog as well. Feel free to check them out!
Is There Trad Climbing At Damai Wall?
You will be pleased to know that there is trad and multi pitch climbing here at Damai Wall. It is located at the middle of Damai Wall beside the cave.
What To Bring To Gua Damai + Tips
There are equipment rentals provided from climbing ropes to shoes. Other than the necessary equipment required for a sport climbing route, here are some recommended items:
- Mosquito repellent: You don’t want these pesky mosquitos to distract your climbing zen. It’s your life savior when you are projecting a route.
- Sunscreen: It’s going to be hot. You may even climb shirtless. Please use sunscreen generously if you do not want to roast your skin. Get a travel pack version for easier portability.
- Sun Hat: Instead of sunglasses, a sunhat works great to shield the scorching rays.
- Belay Glasses: Save the neck pain and invest in an affordable pair of belay glasses. Thank me later.
- Towel: You will sweat in the humid weather. Get a dri-fit towel to keep the sweat away (and the mosquitoes too!)
- Sandals: What will you be wearing before and after your climb? Sandals of course! Get a good pair of hiking waterproof sandals (like the Camel Crown waterproof sandals) for good gripping on those muddy routes and easy washing.
- Snacks: You will get hungry. Grab an energy bar (like CLIF energy bar for the cliff).
- Water: Very important! Bring 1L of water, preferably in a portable water bottle with a carabiner clip.
Gua Damai is home to many flora and fauna but there’s one species you need to look out for: the monkeys. These monkeys appear in groups and will steal things when you are not looking (my friend had her wallet stolen when the monkeys were ransacking her bag, luckily, she found it a couple meters away).
Unfortunately, I do not have a monkey repellent product to recommend to curb this issue (they are pretty smart animals).
Gua Damai Wall Weather
The first thing every outdoor climber needs to check is the weather. During the monsoon season between October and December, climbing at Damai Wall is not recommended.
The best time to climb is early in the morning around 7:30 am before the sun scorches the walls or the afternoon when it is shadier. Climbing in the afternoon may not always be in your favor as it tends to rain in the later hours.
Conclusion
If you are into outdoor rock climbing Malaysia, you’ll definitely enjoy yourself at Damai Wall!
If Damai Wall is too crowded or less challenging for you, you can opt for White Wall which is a 10-minute hike from the Left Wall.
Do share with me your experience at the crag and if there are any useful tips for other climbers to look out for so we can learn together!
If the weather isn’t permitting, you can also explore indoor rock climbing gyms in Malaysia instead!